Last weekend was my first weekend off from guiding in 7 weeks, so I climbed Mount Stuart with my good friend David B. Saturday. It was awesome. Trip report here. Back on Rainier this weekend.

Had another beautiful trip up Rainier over the weekend with a fun group of financiers from Chicago and New Jersey. Summited right as the sun rose above the crater rim - doesn't get much better than that!

DAY 1: HIKING TO CAMP MUIR FROM PARADISE


DAY 2: APPROACHING HIGH CAMP


DAY 3: NEARING THE SUMMIT


SUNRISE


SUCCESS!


More pics: Rainier: 3 Day Muir July 16-18, 2010 photoset on Flickr »

Labels: climbing

Summited for the second time this year. Beautiful weather the entire time - first trip I wasn't rained on, though the heat descending the Muir snowfield was nigh unbearable. Not sure which is preferable. The route from high camp at Ingraham Flats now goes up Disappointment Cleaver, but it's still very direct - about 4 hours to the summit.

DEVIN, A.K.A. THE "INVISIBLE MAN"


MT. ADAMS FROM CAMP MUIR


CLOUDS AT SUNSET


DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER FROM HIGH CAMP


CLIMBERS ENTERING THE SUMMIT CRATER


DESCENDING TO HIGH CAMP


TEAM DEVO: PRASAD & BILL



More pics: Rainier 3 Day Muir July 8-10, 2010 photoset on Flickr.

Labels: climbing

Had a fun trip this last weekend though we didn't summit - we had some really strong clients who made it within 100 vertical feet of the summit crater despite sustained high winds with gusts near 100 mph! Only after co-guide Lee was "body slammed" by a gust did they call it off. (I'd turned around earlier at 12, 500 ft. with another climber.) It's been a rough season for summiting - hope summer finally arrives and conditions improve.

Labels: climbing

Had a nice trip up Mount Baker last weekend. The weather was great on days 1 & 2 and we summited all nine clients. They were a strong group and great fun to work with. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated as we climbed on Sunday: we crossed the summit plateau in a whiteout and wind and descended into foggy drizzle that eventually turned to rain - we were completely soaked on returning to high camp. The rain came and went during our hike out but it never got cold, so it wasn't too bad, just reeeeeally wet.

Forgot my camera, no pics.

Update: pics from clients added!

CLIMBERS AT THE CRATER

(Courtesy of Ben P.)

SUMMIT SHOT

(Courtesy of Howie)

Labels: climbing

Had a good trip up Rainier this weekend. We made the summit finally, although in a pea soup fog. Things cleared up a bit on the way down and we were treated to some great views of high camp. The route is straight ahead, the Ingraham Direct is in great shape - crazy for late June. Absolutely the best skiing conditions I've ever seen on the upper mountain: 5-6 inches of light, dry powder over a firm base. Too bad I had to walk all the way down, I almost cried. :-(

Get a bit of a break this coming weekend, guiding Mt. Baker with my friend Dave Heinbach.

Update: pics from Keith, a client:

GROUP SHOT


RON


JOHNNY: BREAKFAST SERVED!


HIGH CAMP AT INGRAHAM FLATS


LITTLE TAHOMA


ALTITUDE CHECK


ON TOP: ERIC, RON & KEITH


VIEW FROM CATHEDRAL GAP: CAMP MUIR & MT. ADAMS

Labels: climbing

DAY ONE:
Better weather this time, though we started off with some rain, it quickly turned to light snow, then fog, then clear skies by the time we made Camp Muir.

THE MOUNTAIN


NISQUALLY GLACIER


COOK TENT AT MUIR


SUNSET ON MUIR


DAY TWO:
We were still very concerned about avalanche hazard on route and decided not to move to high camp. Instead we conducted an extended snow school, took a little trip up the ridge above camp and toured a crevasse on the Cowlitz Glacier below camp.

PRACTICING ICE AXE ARREST


GOOD TIMES


DAY THREE:
We'd nixed a summit bid but took an early morning walk up to high camp at Ingraham Flats (11,200 ft). Me and two other guides, Cece and Mike, ran ahead and dug some snow pits along the way - still a bunch of funky layers there that we didn't like, but we felt it was safe enough to continue up to the Flats. We were able to dig out high camp (nobody'd been there for a week) and set up the tents. At least we could begin camping up there again. Then we hiked out, down a very warm and sloppy Muir Snowfield. It was a beautiful Saturday, so it was gonzo with hikers and climbers. Stopped at Whitaker's for a post-trip meal, downed a double bacon burger w/ cheese and a beer, then drove home. Yum.

More pics: 3 Day Muir June 10-12 on Flickr»

Labels: climbing